Road Life for the Soul
Life on the road provides a freedom unmatched by any other travel.
Traveling in a campervan around the south island of New Zealand is an incredible way to experience the beauty and diversity of the region. From breathtaking mountains and glaciers to turquoise lakes and sandy beaches, the South Island has a particular essence that brings a calm mind to the forefront.
One of the most significant benefits of traveling in a campervan is the freedom and flexibility it allows. You can choose your own itinerary and take your time exploring, without the constraints of a fixed schedule or predetermined route. You'll be able to stop and stay most wherever you like, whether it's a designated campsite or a secluded spot off the beaten track.
The ability to stop and enjoy a beautiful spot along the road is just so unique. Coming from the city it’s so unfamiliar to do such things but so in tune with a part of your heart that rarely gets noticed. There’s no denying the limited living space of a campervan but in return, you’re afforded the luxury of having all of nature as your backyard.
Our home for 3 weeks
We rented our 6-berth campervan from McRent. I know the name is odd because it immediately makes you think it’s some kind of joke off of the McDonald’s name but McRent is as legit of a company as they come.
McRent, based in New Zealand, specializes in campervans and motorhomes. They have locations in Auckland, Christchurch, and Queenstown. McRent’s offerings include:
A range of sizes and layouts: McRent offers a range of campervans and motorhomes to suit different needs and budgets, from compact 2-berth vehicles to larger 6-berth models. We chose the 6-berth as we needed some extra space for homeschooling and work.
Fully equipped: All McRent vehicles come fully equipped with everything you need for your trip, including a kitchen with a fridge, sink, and stove; a bathroom with a shower and toilet; and comfortable sleeping quarters. It even came with a solar panel that we learned powered the van for days. We even went strictly on solar power for 4 days!
Comprehensive insurance: McRent's rental rates include comprehensive insurance, so you can have peace of mind while on the road. There are multiple options for this but we chose to place a $5000 NZD hold on our credit card which is then canceled upon the return of the vehicle.
24/7 roadside assistance: McRent offers 24/7 roadside assistance in case of any issues with your vehicle. Thankfully we didn’t need to utilize this.
Flexible rental terms: McRent offers flexible rental terms, with the option to rent for as little as one day or as long as several weeks. We did get a 5% discount by renting for 21+ days.
McRent is a reliable and well-equipped rental company that can help you make the most of your trip to New Zealand. They are a great choice if you’re looking to campervan around New Zealand and the Christchurch location has the best customer service we’ve come across anywhere. They were so helpful and provided us with a few extras on the house. I would HIGHLY recommend looking them up if you are in the area.
The Trip
We charted our course, picked up our 6-berth campervan, and took off on our 21-day journey across the South Island of New Zealand.
Here’s a breakdown of our 3-week itinerary :
Auckland (1 day)
Auckland was just a long layover on our journey from Seoul to Christchurch. We checked into the Crowne Plaza Auckland (a dated hotel but centrally located with nice staff) and then proceeded to walk around the downtown area. Being exhausted from our 15-hour flight, we didn’t do much. To give context, one of the highlights of our time there was finding and enjoying a small meal at the local Taco Bell. It’s a major city, by New Zealand standards, and the weather is supposed more stable and nice there but we were really just passing through.
Christchurch (1/2 day)
We flew into Christchurch and went straight to pick up our 6-berth campervan from McRent (~$4800 USD). The check-in was great as they picked us up from the airport, and had our van ready to go. McRent was so kind to throw in free outdoor chairs and tables and even hooked us up with free wifi for the van which was HUGE as in certain parts of the island our cell service didn’t work so well.
We then picked up groceries not far from our pickup location and proceeded on our 3-hour journey through Arthur’s Pass to get to our first campsite.
Arthur’s Pass (1/2 day) - (Jackson’s Retreat - Paid Camp Site)
This was our first overnight campsite. It was a paid campsite (~NZD 79) with power and facilities on-site. The campsite itself was nestled in the woods within Arthur’s Pass and they had a glowworm nature site within a short walking distance. It was fun for the kids to see the glowworms however we didn’t spend too much time in the area as it was really for us to get some rest from our long journey, power up, and then head over to our first desired location, Kawatiri Reserve Beach.
Kawatiri (Kawatiri Reserve Beach - Freedom Camping) (1 day)
Kawatiri Reserve Beach was our real first destination. It’s a quiet beach with long stretches of untouched sand right outside of the town of Westport. This was also our first freedom campsite which meant we were allowed to park there for no cost, right on the beach! The weather, unfortunately, turned south a few hours after we had gotten there but thankfully we were able to get out and enjoy the empty beach before. It’s a bit of a trek to get there if you're coming from Christchurch but it’s well worth it. The town of Westport itself didn’t have much to write home about but they did have a nice pie shop in town called West Coast Pies which had some delicious meat pies.
Punakaiki (1/2 day)
As the weather forecast wasn’t great in Kawatiri we decided to proceed south for clearer skies. The weather in South Island can be VERY sporadic and unpredictable. We left Kawatiri Reserve Beach due to high winds and rain and then just an hour south in Punakaiki it was cloudy but clear enough for us to visit the pancake rocks. The pancake rocks are some uniquely shaped rocks that scientists as still unsure how they were formed.
We hung out for a bit but due to poor weather again, we headed further down south to camp for the night. I think Punakaiki is worth your time if the weather cooperates, as it has nice beaches and a great coastline drive but we just didn’t have the time to wait out the days of rain that were forecasted.
Greymouth (Blaketown - Freedom Camping) (1/2 day)
Greymouth is a decent-sized town with large markets and some shopping. They even have a movie theater in the town but we were there really because it was a good stopping point for us to sleep for the night.
We stayed at another freedom camping site in an area of Greymouth called Blaketown, which was right by the water. Unfortunately again due to the uncooperating weather, we just stayed in our campervan and didn’t venture out. I’m not sure Greymouth is a destination I would recommend other than if you need gas and supplies on your way to somewhere else.
Hokitika (1/2 Day)
We woke up early and drove from Greymouth to Hokitika to visit the Hokitika Gorge. Rain was pouring that day but this was the third day we had been rained in and so we all agreed it was time to gear up and start enjoying New Zealand nature for a bit.
Hokitika Gorge was a beautiful 45-minute hike that crossed through a river and even with the bad weather the views were still stunning. Under normal circumstances, the river in Hokitika Gorge is an incredible turquoise blue but regardless it’s still one of the best hikes we’ve been on to date.
Franz Josef Glacier (Rainforest Retreat - Paid Camp Site) (2 days)
Once we finished up at Hokitika Gorge we drove all the way down to Franz Josef Glacier and stayed at the Rainforest Retreat. This was a paid power campsite with great facilities. They had a kitchen, a lounge area, a full restaurant and bar on-site, and even a sauna and large jacuzzi tub for use. As the weather still forecasted rain for the next couple of days we decided to stay here for 2 nights (NZD 130) and did our best to enjoy ourselves.
Franz Josef has a lot of glacier activities such as hikes, helicopter rides, kayaking, etc…. We did none of those things as due to the weather most things weren’t operational. Even the natural hot springs in the area were shut down. It was nice to get in some work and also enjoy the sauna and jacuzzi though. If you’re ever in the Franz Josef area I would highly recommend the Rainforest Retreat campsite.
Lake Wanaka (Glendhu Bay Motor Camp - Paid Camp Site) and (Red Bridge Reserve - Freedom Camping) (2 days)
After Franz Josef, we headed further south to Lake Wanaka and finally found some sunshine! We LOVED Lake Wanaka. Maybe it was the first sunshine in almost a week but Lake Wanaka is a cute town with character and fun places to hang out and eat.
We first stayed a little outside of Lake Wanaka at the Glendhu Bay motor campsite. It was a paid site and cost us NZD 60 for a non-powered site. It was a little pricey but the site was right on the lake and close to lots of easy and family-friendly trails. We did some amazing hikes around the area and also had a little trick-or-treat Halloween fun with the kids. Too much candy was had but we wanted them to have a little bit of homestyle fun that they haven’t had for months.
After having to stay indoors and cook most of our meals, we mixed it up and ate at a few local spots around Lake Wanaka. All the spots we tried were tasty and had a good variety of eats from burgers, pizzas, etc. We even tried a sushi food truck that was decent.
The area around Lake Wanaka also has some unique places to spend your time. One place we visited was the local Lavender farm. I know, who thinks of visiting a lavender farm right? However, it was surprisingly fun to hang out at as it had animals to pet, a fun scavenger hunt, and also unique teas to enjoy on their patio.
We also checked out a small local movie theater called Cinema Paradiso, which had so much character from the old couches they used for seating to the homemade cookies that we still think about to this day. The owner told us it was an old Ben and Jerry’s recipe that he uses and so we’ll be looking to try it out when we get back home.
I would consider Lake Wanaka a must-visit if you're traveling around New Zealand. Supposedly it’s a great ski town as well.
Cromwell (Lowburn Harbour - Freedom Camping) (1 day)
Between Lake Wanaka and Queenstown is a small town called Cromwell. The town is known for having excellent fruit but unfortunately, we weren’t there during the right time of the year to partake. They also have a small shopping center, nearby wineries, miniature golf, and a decent playground for kids.
One pleasant surprise was the Cromwell freedom camping site in Lowburn Harbour. The site is 5 minutes out of town and right on a small lake. It was one of the better freedom campsites because it had a public bathroom, trash bins to dump your trash, and plenty of parking right next to the water to enjoy the scenery and nearby ducks. We also stopped and slept here on our way from Milford Sound to Lake Pukaki (6 hr drive).
Queenstown (Driftaway - Paid Camp Site) (3 days)
Queenstown is a decently-sized city by New Zealand standards and has a lot of fun things to do. There’s a beautiful downtown area right next to the water (starting to get the theme here?), with a nice green area to hang out, shop, and indulge in some good local eats like Fergburger. You can get around the town pretty easily and the best campervan site we stayed at was just 10 minutes outside the downtown area at a place called Driftaway.
At $75 NZD/night Driftaway was the best campervan site we stayed at in all of New Zealand. The facilities were brand new and had a great layout. The campsite we got was right by the lake with a great view and also next to the giant trampoline balloon which the kids, and I, loved. There was also a game room with foosball, an arcade machine, and air hockey.
The TV room had a super comfy couch and the outdoor BBQ and eating areas were perfectly positioned to get amazing views of the lake. The Bathrooms were great, the kitchen was fully stocked and even had free stuff that previous guests had left for anyone to use and the staff was also great. If you plan to go to Queenstown this campsite is one you can’t miss.
Queenstown is also a popular ski destination, with several ski fields in the surrounding area. The town also offers a range of ski rental shops and tour operators. Some things you can do, but we didn’t are to:
Take a scenic lake cruise: Lake Wakatipu, which surrounds Queenstown, is a stunning body of water with a dramatic mountain backdrop. Several companies offer scenic cruises on the lake, allowing you to take in the views and learn about the history of the region.
Go bungee jumping or skydiving: Queenstown is known as the "Adventure Capital of the World," and it's a great place to try extreme sports such as bungee jumping and skydiving. Several companies offer these activities, with varying levels of difficulty and thrill.
Overall, Queenstown is a vibrant and exciting destination, perfect for those looking for adventure and outdoor activities. Its stunning lake and mountain views, combined with its wide range of things to do, make it a must-visit spot on any trip to the South Island.
Te Anau (Tasman Holiday Park - Paid Camp Site) (1 day)
The town of Te Anau is really small but very quaint. It was quiet but felt welcoming and peaceful. The lake has beautiful sunset views and there’s a great playground by the campsite that had a fun zipline that was honestly fun for all ages. The campsite was dated and small but did have a nice free sauna on site.
There are a few restaurants in town and a couple of markets. It’s a good place to eat and load up on items before continuing on your journey.
Milford Sound (1/2 day)
The real reason we stayed in Te Anau is that we couldn’t get a camping space in Milford Sound. So instead we woke up early and made the 1.5 hr trip out to Milford Sound. The drive is one of the most unique and amazing drives in all of New Zealand. The road to Milford Sound has so much different terrain and views that it’s something that can’t be missed.
Travel Tip: One thing I would HIGHLY recommend though is to fill up your tank before you head out to Milford Sound. We had about a little less than half a tank for a 1.5-hour ride but didn’t anticipate the crazy uphill climb to get to Milford Sound. We didn’t know if we could make it back with the gas we had left after getting there but luckily there was a small, unidentified, gas station there. Unfortunately, the self-service machine there didn’t accept any foreign credit cards or cash and so I had to ask random people if they had a New Zealand credit card. Then I had to convince someone with a New Zealand credit card to use it in exchange for cash. Thankfully someone was kind enough and trusting enough, to help us out.
Once we got to Milford Sound it was a fantastic day. The weather was perfect for an area of the world that is notorious for 200+ days of rain every year. We bought tickets for our ship, Cruising Milford, at the docking center where there are multiple cruise ships stations. The prices are mostly the same but Cruising Milford’s ship was new and had some great viewing decks.
Some of the highlights of our Milford Sound cruise included:
Seeing the iconic Mitre Peak, a mountain that rises more than 5,000 feet out of the fiord
Spotting wildlife such as seals, penguins, and dolphins
Getting up close to the waterfalls that flow from the cliffs into the fiord
Learning about the geology and history of the region from your guide
The cruise was really expensive, to be honest. The four of us cost NZD 280 for a ride that was just a couple of hours but it is one of the most amazing natural sites you’ll ever see. Surprisingly, since it was such a sunny day the waterfalls weren’t in full effect like they could have been but it was still awe-inspiring. Would I do it again, likely not, but was it an experience? It certainly was.
Lake Pukaki (Lake Pukaki Reserve - Freedom Camping) (2 1/2 days)
Lake Pukaki…The best freedom camping site in ALL of New Zealand. I know I talk about “the views” a lot in this blog but it’s because each one warrants your attention. Lake Pukaki was our favorite because it had two freedom camping sites that afford you the luxury of hanging out lakeside, swimming in turquoise blue, but ICE COLD, glacier waters, and taking in the crystal clear night skies filled with stars.
In addition to all the wonderful natural hangout spots, Lake Pukaki has the famous Mt. Cook Alpine Salmon shop. This shop is for all the salmon lovers out there, with fresh New Zealand salmon prepared in multiple ways. We bought a couple of packs of their sashimi, picked up one of their house ponzu sauce, got some avocados, and made homemade sushi hand rolls.
Lake Pukaki was just one of those special places that provided us the New Zealand experience that our family was looking for and the fact that you could park your campervan lakeside for free just made it that much more enjoyable.
The only downside is if you need anything the closest place is the town Twizel, 20 minutes from Lake Pukaki. If you go to Twizel though make sure to stop at The Musterers Hut Cafe, they have some of the best pies in all of New Zealand. Their chicken pie was AMAZING.
Mt. Cook (Glentanner Holiday Park - Paid Camp Site) (1 day)
If you’re looking for a powered site close to Mt. Cook then the Glentanner holiday park is your spot. It was pricey at NZD 84 but we needed a site for van upkeep (power, dumping waste, etc.) after having freedom camped for a few nights up to this point. It also allowed us to rest easily after hiking the first half of the day in Mt. Cook. (The best hike for families in all of New Zealand in my opinion)
Lake Tekapo (1/2 day)
Lake Tekapo is well known throughout New Zealand. It’s very similar to Lake Pukaki but has a small town surrounding the lake. We grabbed some items at the local grocery store and ate a woodfire pizza from a food truck. We would have stayed longer but we were putting preference to freedom campsites at that point so we just hung out around Lake Tekapo for the afternoon and then proceeded to a freedom campsite elsewhere.
Lake Opuha (Freedom Camping) (1/4 day)
This was a nice freedom camping site to stop at if you’re traveling up north from Lake Tekapo towards Christchurch. While we didn’t spend much time hanging out here it was a nice spot to sleep for the night.
Fairlie (1/4 day)
We had no intention of stopping in Fairlie but as we were driving through the area we saw a nice restaurant/shop called the Farm Barn Cafe. The cafe had beautiful decor and some of the best coffee and breakfast food. It even had a small playground and a petting zoo out back. If you ever driving through the area it’s a definite stop.
Geraldine (1/4 day)
Another quick stop on the way up north as Geraldine had a petting zoo called the Skipton animal park. It’s a small, family-run establishment that had some great animals and bunnies to play with.
Christchurch (Naval Point - Freedom Camping) (1/4 day)
We had to head into Christchurch a little earlier than expected because Christopher injured his arm falling off a rock. New Zealand has amazing healthcare where if you’re a visitor any accident is covered 100% by the government. Not only was the hospital bill $0 but the quality of care was just next level.
After getting Christopher treated we ventured around the city, had some dinner, and took in a movie to celebrate our good fortune. We then headed a little way out of town to the naval point freedom campsite which honestly wasn’t the best place as it was just a dingy parking lot. We slept and then proceeded on our way the next morning.
Akaroa (Akaroa Freedom Camping) (1 day)
The drive to Akaroa wasn’t too long (1.5 hours) but the roads are pretty windy uphill when you get closer to the town. The freedom campsite there was okay as it was close to the bay and right in town but the spots were just in a parking lot. There is a decent hike in Akaroa that leads up to the top of a hill with amazing panoramic views of the town. You even get to see some unique metal animal statues along the way.
The town of Akaroa is pretty small and doesn’t have too much to offer. There was a nice coffee shop and a few restaurants but most were closed so unfortunately we didn’t get to do much in Akaroa.
Christchurch (Amber Park - Paid Camp Site) (1 day)
Our last stop was Christchurch at the Amber Park campsite which cost us NZD 84 for a night. It had power, a kitchen, and all the necessary things you need to final prep your campervan before giving it back. The website stated that it had a shuttle that would take you into town but when we got there we found out that that was no longer offered.
One crazy thing that happened during this part of the trip was that we had forgotten the campervan’s water tank cap back in Akaroa. We have to drive back 3 hours roundtrip to get it and honestly didn’t even know if it was still there. Luckily we called the local campsite and they were not only kind enough to search for the water tank cap but the person who found it was serendipitously heading into Christchurch that day as well.
It was amazing luck that we were able to meet them and get back the campervan’s water tank cap. Just thinking about it now gives me anxiety as I’m sure the replacement cost for the cap would not have been cheap. Thankfully it all worked out and we were able to return our campervan in one piece.
Travel tip: Always triple-check your campervan and its components after any things you do to it!
Overall, our 3-week campervan trip to the South Island of New Zealand was undoubtedly one of the most memorable adventures to date. To this day it’s a trip that all of us look back on and wish we could do again. The pace of life was incredibly restful but simultaneously some of the best adventures we’ve had. Although being one of the most expensive trips it is still one of the best experiences and times in our lives. It’s a must for everyone.
Total drive time - ~27 hrs
Total area covered - ~2120kms